Three Days in Madrid

As London is an exciting buzz, Madrid is a warm hug. The main part I loved about visiting Madrid was the authenticity and friendliness of the people there. Originally, I was very concerned about only knowing a little Spanish, having read that Spain is Europe’s lowest English-speaking country.  But I needn’t have worried as I found people who were happy to chat with me even with my limited Spanish. The city surprised me with unexpected delights: fanciful coffee confections in a city not typically known for coffee, a relaxing tree-filled park at a popular tourist spot, and plazas surrounded by buildings that put their history on display. 

What I loved:

Everywhere I went, people were genuinely open and kind. From the driver that picked me up at the airport, to the servers in restaurants, and even a few people on the streets with whom I initiated conversations, all of them were willing to talk with me, even with limited English.  I always tried to speak a little Spanish, but that was much less than the amount of English others knew.  

The food was amazing, and I was happy to find a good amount of vegetarian options.  I knew that the typical breakfast was churros dipped in chocolate, or so I had read.  However, I never once had that traditional breakfast, instead finding “cafeterias” which open earlier in the mornings.  These offered a variety of breakfast foods usually in a delightful Spanish style.  I enjoyed such breakfasts at La Carmela, across the street from my hostal near Puerta del Sol, and La Rollerie, where I had egg dishes at each location.  Each breakfast was accompanied by delectable coffee options.   A “cafe bonbon” was coffee with sweetened condensed milk, and a chocolate hazelnut cappuccino was topped with actual ground hazelnuts! 

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I also loved La Mallorquina which is a popular pastry shop also in the Puerto del Sol area.  I tried one of their creme and another day a chocolate napoleon, eating it standing at the bar like the locals.  I noticed a few all-vegetarian restaurants during my walks and tours throughout the city as well.  I particularly enjoyed Artemisa one evening after seeing a flamenco show.  

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Speaking of food, a trip to Madrid wouldn’t be complete without a tapas tour! While there were fewer vegetarian options at the places the guide took us, most had at least one item I could eat.  I really liked the sweet vermouth at the first stop - El Anciano Rey de los Vino.  Another of the tapas restaurants that stood out to me was Revolut.  This was located somewhat underground in a cellar-like area, with lovely stone arches and Spanish paintings on the walls.  Apparently it’s famous for its mushroom dishes - shame that I don't care for mushrooms! Gratefully, there was also paprika mashed potatoes which were great! For a drink, we tried tinto de verano (summer wine) which is red wine mixed with a sweetened tonic water.  It wasn’t my favorite as it left an odd aftertaste.  The final stop, and probably my favorite was La Trucha, which was bright and lively with lots of patrons.  They had a large menu selection, and included a Riojo red wine, of which Spain is known for.  We finished off with a sweet creme alcoholic drink of some sort.  Food included a trout and salmon dish, fried eggplant with a sweet maple sauce, and some lightly battered fried peppers.

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The city’s architecture has its own Spanish charm. I loved learning that Plaza Mayor was originally built entirely of wood, burned down in a massive fire, and was later rebuilt into the colorful square we see today. Wandering around the streets of Madrid revealed no less colorful and quietly historical buildings as well.  I loved the mosaic tiles on some buildings with the street names. The highlight of a walking tour was the beautiful Almudena Cathedral (pictured at top) with it’s neo-gothic architectural design, located across a vast courtyard from the Royal Palace.

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While not quite the hidden gem as I originally thought, I love visiting the Templo de Debod on one late afternoon. While it is free to enter, it requires a pre-booked timed admission, which I hadn’t done.  What I didn’t expect was the lovely green park surrounding it, which seemed to be popular with locals and visitors alike as I heard Spanish, English and a few other languages as I relaxed there on a park bench for at least an hour.  It was a nice respite from a large and sometimes busy city.

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‍What I liked:

Most of the time, I explored the city on foot, on guided tours or following Google Maps to my next destination.  I used buses when going across town to visit a couple of museums.  One of those was the Sofia Reina which is only slightly less popular than the Prado, which I did not have time to see.  The variety of Picasso art is worth the visit alone! There was also a good number of Dali pieces and Cubist art.  

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The Royal Palace is also worth a visit if you don’t mind the crowds. The ornate rooms truly takes one back to the days of the early monarchs and romantic notions of knights and lords and ladies. I loved the various color themes in each room we visited, also with a variety of art works and portraits of long past royalty.  We visited only a handful of the more than 3500 rooms of this grand palace, one of the larger working palaces in Europe.  I found an interesting bit of history that the guide mentioned when we walked through the royal chapel.  When General Franco ruled the country, everyone was required to own a TV and watch the Sunday Mass broadcast from the palace. 

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Another museum which I enjoyed was the National Archaeological Museum, which must be an underrated site as I practically had the entire place to myself! I love seeing ancient treasures unearthed from the past, and this museum had hundreds, most found right there in Spain.
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‍Puerto del Sol is the geographical heart of the city, and also seems to be a common gathering place for random events. One night as I was heading back to my room, there was a big protest with drum beats, chants, and people dressed in green shirts with something I couldn’t quite read on the fronts.  Curious, I asked a nearby woman in one of the green shirts what the protest was for. Apparently the Spanish government was set to cut some amount of funding for public education, and that was not popular.  On another evening, I joined a crowd of spectators watching a trio of buskers who were performing acrobatic acts.  The finale was quite impressive as one of them did a running aerial somersault over 3 ladies they had pulled from the crowd. Granted the young women were hunched over in a bow, but it was still an entertaining spectacle.

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‍Moments of Connection:

The times I interacted with the Spanish people are what really made this trip come alive for me.  I I immediately felt a fondness for Eleanor, my tapas-tour guide. She was British and explained that she had moved to Madrid from London 10 years prior, as she had a few friends that lived in Madrid. I had a chance to chat with her at the end of that tour, and upon hearing my plans for job hunting in Manchester, England, she excitedly suggested that I should move to Madrid. Eleanor mentioned an expat group she was part of and said I’d easily find companionship there, that I wouldn’t really be moving alone.  She was quite persuasive in that encounter, as I reflected later, wondering if I really could find belonging in Madrid. 

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One afternoon, I asked a pair of gentlemen who worked for the National Library how to access the Museum of Archeology.  They were happy to answer, and then almost immediately — began asking what I thought of Madrid so far, what I’d enjoyed, and where I was from. Their English was better than my Spanish but at times they struggled to understand my answers, so I tried short sentences in Spanish whenever I could.  Before I left, they pointed me down the right street and wished me a wonderful time in their city. Their curiosity left a smile on my face as I walked away. 

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‍What I Missed:

I had a few other places on my list but ran out of time for this trip.  I really wanted to explore Retiro Park as that seems to be another relaxing green space to take a break from the city when needed.  I walked through the popular and touristy Mercado de San Miguel, but all the tour guides said not to spend money there as it’s overpriced and not authentic Spanish cuisine.  Instead, a better option is Mercado de Vallehermoso which I didn’t get to try.  

Additionally, a few neighborhoods recommended in a Madrid Travel Tips group are still on my list for some fun shopping or just soaking in local culture. These include Malasaña, Barrio de las Letras, Chueca, plus two plazas I missed: Plaza de Olavide and Plaza de Cibeles.‍Final thoughts:Madrid wasn’t just beautiful, it was unexpectedly welcoming. I was excited to see the sights, the art, and history of the city, but it was the people and the conversations that drew me in. I’m excited to go back some day, and perhaps I’ll find out if it’s a place where I could truly belong.